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Author Topic: Westys Workshop  (Read 3494 times)
George
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« Reply #60 on: February 23, 2011, 02:26:03 AM »

Awesome army Edmund. I'm glad I got a game in against it at Battlecry. Your freehand on the tanks and your HQ are simply amazing. Excellent stuff.
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HarasinCreed
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« Reply #61 on: February 23, 2011, 06:41:26 AM »

Thanks guys both your armies looked pretty mint also. I dont know what you are talking about Damien always saying that your painting skills suck because you are wrong. Really injoyed the game against you George and what army are you going to be building now?

Ed
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HarasinCreed
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« Reply #62 on: February 23, 2011, 11:42:24 AM »

So practically finished up my first samurai warrior. This is just the test model the real ones will have way better quality modelling and ill make the sword for real and wont use a DA shield.





C&C welcome

Ed
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daemion
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yay 4 me. i rule.


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« Reply #63 on: February 23, 2011, 01:28:08 PM »

banzai for the emperor!
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Lezle
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« Reply #64 on: February 23, 2011, 02:46:25 PM »

I don't think the Japs used shields... I think they needed both hands to shoot their odd looking bows. Undecided

The completed army looks really good; I weapon glow is well done.

Lezle
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HarasinCreed
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« Reply #65 on: February 23, 2011, 03:34:52 PM »

Ya the shield was the only thing that fitted the pose of the rest of the model. I will not be giving anyone else one.
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George
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« Reply #66 on: February 24, 2011, 01:10:40 AM »

Really injoyed the game against you George and what army are you going to be building now?

Ed

Cheers Ed. I'm doing phase 2 of my Templars. I've dropped the Terminators (both units) and the LRC as well as the Marshal and I've added in a Chaplain with 3 cenobyte servitors, a 10 Initiate/10 Neophyte foot slogging unit, a razorback with a 6 Initiate squad, a 6 Initiate on foot and 2 preds. All up it has 61 (41 Initiates/20 Neophytes) infantry, 2 HQ, 3 Rhino's, a razorback with TLLC and 2 preds, one with TLLC and HB sponsons and one with AC and LC sponsons. Thankfully I have most of it painted so it should be done by Battle above the Brynderwyns (hopefully)
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juiced
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Waaaaargh...aar...a..a.


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« Reply #67 on: February 24, 2011, 06:18:55 PM »

i'm impressed with green stuff skills.....i've stopped trying to make things like helmets because they always look naff.
but you have done a nice job
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HarasinCreed
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« Reply #68 on: April 26, 2011, 05:19:36 PM »

So started doing my Golden Demon model early this year because i forgot about it last year.
So this is beginning C&C appreciated:




Edmund
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HarasinCreed
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« Reply #69 on: April 27, 2011, 03:09:53 PM »

So did some more work on the model and changed the head so here we are:



If someone knows how i should paint the horns that would be a help

Edmund
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George
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« Reply #70 on: May 04, 2011, 03:06:08 PM »

Don't know how to paint the horns Ed (although I did kinda think they were painted rather nicely in that shot), but a nice job on the marine.
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Monkey King
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« Reply #71 on: May 05, 2011, 08:25:18 AM »

Okay, this is just my two cents and by all means ignore me. I say that because I have nothing at this moment to even prove I can paint at all.

Anyways, I looked at the pictures you posted of the previous head and the current head and though of two ideas. The first is that you make the horns a bright colour, coloured the normal way, brown at the base and whitened through like normal horns. I'd actually NOT do this idea. The horns will be lost in the whole model, asking the question, why bother having them there.

My other idea was to work them in muted slightly darker colours then the ones you are working with. You then work the horns opposite to what you normally would. I would start the base colour as a grey with that blue you use. Then work in the grey over top wet blending and highlighting. Then I would darken the grey colour, working up the horns until you get to an almost black colour. This would mean the darkest colours are away from the face and the effect should draw the eye down to the helmet and face area, letting the horns have some purpose visually?

I don't know, like I said, just my two cents...
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HarasinCreed
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« Reply #72 on: May 20, 2011, 02:40:41 PM »

So im trying out some airbrush painting on canvas instead of miniatures and this is what iv come up with so far and for my first painting quite pleased


Edmund

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juiced
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Waaaaargh...aar...a..a.


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« Reply #73 on: May 20, 2011, 06:39:34 PM »

are you a ghost rider fan by any chance Wink
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HarasinCreed
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« Reply #74 on: May 21, 2011, 06:47:58 AM »

No i havnt even seen the film its just that skulls are simple to draw and shade so it seemed like a good starter shape.
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NeckFace
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« Reply #75 on: May 21, 2011, 08:02:19 AM »

don't watch the movie, read the comics Sad
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juiced
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« Reply #76 on: May 21, 2011, 02:08:56 PM »

yearh thats what i meant the comics......yo u could start air brushing cars,i did a graffitti peice on a friends car using the battery powered taimya air brush....
i was refilling the little pot about every 3 mins Roll Eyes
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HarasinCreed
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« Reply #77 on: August 27, 2011, 12:38:58 PM »

Finally after like 3months i have finished my GD model:


Feedback appreciated
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« Reply #78 on: September 02, 2011, 11:59:34 AM »

the airbrush is nice and smooth, so you got some beautiful grades there, but the model feels very unfinished to me.  the armour in particular feels lacking.  this is can be remedied through the addition of iconography on the shoulder pads and other large areas of armour.  another thing that could be explored is maybe some form of battle-damage? small chips provide relief on large smooth areas, or even small areas of rust in recesses to give a slightly antiquated look to the whole thing

also the backpack is looking bland being all the same colour.  it'd be an opportunity to get more of that NMM gold in there, or even the bone which looks nice on the horns and wouldn't go amiss as a second trim colour some where.

the banner and base also feel a little void of any real dynamic.  seeing the banner pole doesn't reach all the way to the base, work more relief into the ground, a slight mound of rubble, etc that the pole could be planted into.  also the top of the pole could have a bit more going on too?

obviously these are all suggestions, and suggestions are probably not what you want to hear after 3 months, so feel free to ignore me dude.
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Solarian
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« Reply #79 on: November 14, 2011, 08:00:39 PM »

Model is good but the above suggestions would add to it, time/interest depending.

Think the pole should go alway to ground and some tip at the top could allow trophies and the chance to chuck a few different colours in.
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