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Author Topic: WIP Ultramarine Chapter Master  (Read 1068 times)
Vent
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« on: July 20, 2009, 10:35:45 AM »

Hi guys, I was asked to paint a chapter master for someone in Ultramarine colors and thought I might document the process:
Day one:

After pinning the head into place and undercoating in black I started with painting the head. I'm not to good with flesh tones so tried Rachel's tutorial from Iron Halo. Mixing the Flat Flesh and Beige Brown in a 1:1 mix gave a great basecoat for the skin. When it dried I gave it a light wash of Gryphonne Sepia to improve the depth a little. I also like this mini because the eyes are almost non-existent with the squinting. Then I used boltgun on the collar and earpiece. I then used a Moridan Blue foundation for the basecoat of the armor and a Mechrite red for the cloak. End day one (what can I say I am lazy...). It was at this point I noticed the pock marking in the recesses of the cloak and above the knees. I offered the guy a choice of stripping and me filling the pocks with GS and starting again, or keep going and try and minimise the problem with paint. He chose the second option.



Day two:

Boltgun metal used as a basecoat for the gold parts, the terminator honors badge and the armor joints. I then used an astonomican gray foundation for the wing, the rope, the stomach plate Aquila and the laurel on his left leg. I washes the recesses with a watered down Asurmen Blue. The inner robe, the skull, the parchment of the seals and the leg banner were painted in Dheneb Stone, and given either a Sepia wash or an Orgyn Flesh wash (In the case of the banner it was washed twice.). The was seals was given multiple coats of Blood red and then a dot of orgyn Flesh in the center. The holster was basecoated with Beastial Brown. I then painted burnished gold over all BG Silver that would be gold and then washed it with Orgyn Flesh and Badab black. Finally I did the shoulder Rim in green, and hated it.



Day three:

After feedback from the owner we both decided to get rid of the green and bling him up some more with gold (Waahoo!). Today was highlight day; so I did the first broad highlight of the armor in UM Blue. The second highlight is done with a 1:1 mix of UM Blue and white. I then darkened the recesses with multiple washes of Orgyn Flesh and then highlighted the cloth with blood red. Mithril silver highlight of the Terminator Badge and the head studs and bits of the earpiece. Then I painted the hammer. The armor is done the same way, as is the gold. The hammer head is astronomican gray with a few white highlights. The owner wanted his skin a little darker so I added another layer of Sepia to the head. I highlighted the holster and with beige brown and then bleached bone touches. I then glued the pin in place of his arm and here we are.



Still to do:

All the gems need to be done in purple
Need to find out what to write on the leg and shoulder banner
Need to find out what I'm to do in regards to the base. I think a nice Iron Halo base would be quite dynamic...
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Sectiplave
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« Reply #1 on: July 20, 2009, 10:56:54 AM »

Looks really good, I actually learned a few tips from there to add some extra levels of detail to my models, I have been having trouble with gold so I will give a try with the silver base coat technique.

Just a question what sort of fine detail brush are you using, I find GW's fine detail bruss is too long and I constantly end up going over the lines and then spend massive time cleaning up the lines Sad
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Vent
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« Reply #2 on: July 20, 2009, 02:02:17 PM »

Looks really good, I actually learned a few tips from there to add some extra levels of detail to my models, I have been having trouble with gold so I will give a try with the silver base coat technique.
Thanks very much. Just another thing about doing gold. Make sure every layer is dry. Boltgun Silver > Burnished Gold > Orgyn Flesh Wash > Badab Black Wash.
The Gold layer will look really weak, don't add more thinking you need to. The washes will bring out the right color.

Just a question what sort of fine detail brush are you using, I find GW's fine detail bruss is too long and I constantly end up going over the lines and then spend massive time cleaning up the lines Sad
Can't say I've ever used a GW detail brush. I use Escoda brushes. My fine detail is a Perla >sintetico 1430 Bristle length would be... hmmm about 8mm?
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Lazarus
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« Reply #3 on: July 20, 2009, 02:58:19 PM »

I been trying to find something you did wrong but i could not apart from a bit of gold on the pad on the top right arm it look very nice. i would of done a blue wash after the foundation instead of the black in the lines but that's me. 
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Vent
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« Reply #4 on: July 20, 2009, 05:11:29 PM »

I been trying to find something you did wrong but i could not apart from a bit of gold on the pad on the top right arm it look very nice. i would of done a blue wash after the foundation instead of the black in the lines but that's me. 

Actually that's not gold; it's a white highlight. It was on the photo I used as a guide, but maybe it's unneeded since I've changed the rim to gold?
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Simon
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« Reply #5 on: July 21, 2009, 05:04:54 AM »

looks good, just need to water down the paint more~ Cheesy
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Vent
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« Reply #6 on: July 21, 2009, 05:51:03 AM »

looks good, just need to water down the paint more~ Cheesy

In what respect; I mean I water my paint down already to the consistency of milk, anymore and it feels wrong. Is all the paint to heavy? Or just some? I've only been painting for a year, so as much feedback as you can give is appreciated, as it helps me learn.
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Simon
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« Reply #7 on: July 21, 2009, 07:10:43 AM »

the model looks really good in table top standard.

but if u planning to paint it to a display piece standard or commission standard... well my expectation would be much higher..

one thing about foundation paint is that it can go over black undercoat very easily, but it is very thick, so it is very important to thin your paint down a lot and do multiple coats. this way the model will look a lot smoother. (I usually do around 2 to 3 coats for my table top standard models (becuase i'm bloody lazy and i like to paint really fast, and at least 7-8 very thin coat for display standard)

the high light on the third pic is too thick, and unable to blend to the base coat. therefore i can see line between your base coat and your highlight very clearly.
and the "rope thing" on the chest, the (space wolve grey??) high light is too thick, and I can feel the brush lines on your model. same apply to your gold highlight, and your silver on your hammer and the face.

it is really hard to explain... ask Chris how to blend, as his blending skill is close to perfect....

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Vent
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« Reply #8 on: July 21, 2009, 07:22:51 AM »

the model looks really good in table top standard.

but if u planning to paint it to a display piece standard or commission standard... well my expectation would be much higher..

one thing about foundation paint is that it can go over black undercoat very easily, but it is very thick, so it is very important to thin your paint down a lot and do multiple coats. this way the model will look a lot smoother. (I usually do around 2 to 3 coats for my table top standard models (becuase i'm bloody lazy and i like to paint really fast, and at least 7-8 very thin coat for display standard)

the high light on the third pic is too thick, and unable to blend to the base coat. therefore i can see line between your base coat and your highlight very clearly.
and the "rope thing" on the chest, the (space wolve grey??) high light is too thick, and I can feel the brush lines on your model. same apply to your gold highlight, and your silver on your hammer and the face.

it is really hard to explain... ask Chris how to blend, as his blending skill is close to perfect....



Thanks for your input. This isn't a commission or a display piece. It's just a figure for a friend. As for blending, I haven't tried to do that yet, I get that I'm not very good yet, but we've all got to start somewhere...
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« Reply #9 on: July 21, 2009, 10:08:21 AM »

Quote
Thanks for your input. This isn't a commission or a display piece. It's just a figure for a friend. As for blending, I haven't tried to do that yet, I get that I'm not very good yet, but we've all got to start somewhere...

I think it is good to learn how to blend anyway.
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Vent
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« Reply #10 on: July 23, 2009, 01:32:05 PM »

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I think it is good to learn how to blend anyway.

I agree; and it is on the list of things to learn ^_^
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